A Fort Frances Tour - Discover the History |
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Pick up your map at the Fort Frances Museum to learn more about heritage sites, buildings, murals, and plaques. From the eastern shores of the Rainy Lake Causeway the map guides you through Pither’s Point Park, the LaVerendrye Parkway and through the downtown to sites in the west end. Find out were the Ontario Heritage Foundation plaques that dot the town are and spend some time on the LaVerendrye Parkway were Heritage panels tell of the history of LaVerendrye, the sorting gap, boating excursions and fishing along the river. Heritage Maps are Available at the Fort Frances Museum EXPLORE THESE HERITAGE SITES
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East End Fort Frances
The scenic lookout overlooks Rainy Lake to the North is the area known as the north arm to the south the area known as the south arm. Rainy Lake covers more than 350 square miles, has 1,600 miles of shoreline and a maximum depth of 161 feet. Rainy Lake was a remnant of Glacial Lake Aggasiz.
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The Causeway was officially opened in 1965 providing a vital link to the east. Construction of the bridge began in 1958, with the 3 1/2 mile bridge finished at a cost $7, 341,898.03. The Causeway is 36 feet at it’s highest point. To the south is the Canadian Northern railway, originally constructed in 1902. The bridge to the west is lifted to provide access for boat traffic. To the west the shores of Rainy Lake are part of the Couchiching First Nations. The large docking facility is known as the 5 mile dock and serves a variety of residents. During the summer this lookout provides a launching area for local boaters. During the winter a winter paradise awaits snowmobilers, and an ice road leaves from the 5-mile dock. |
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COUCHICHING FIRST NATION Treaty #3 of October 3, 1873 between the Dominion of Canada and the Saulteaux tribe of Ojibways and others ceded 55,000 square miles lying west of the Great Lakes and a small portion of SE Manitoba. |
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Lady of Lourdes, Roman Catholic Church, Couchiching First Nation Originally built in 1898, a second church was built in 1914 and was run by Jesuit Missionaries. This church burned down in 1920. A new building was erected in 1948 and stands on the foundation of the original church. RAINY LAKE LOOKOUT HWY 11-Ontario Historical Plaque
JACQUES de NOYON Jacques de Noyon, the first white man to arrive in this area is recognized on this plaque. Born at Trois-Rivières and brought up at Boucherville, Jacques de Noyon, explorer, fur trader and soldier, set out in 1688 for Lake Superior. He ascended the Kaministiqua River, the first European known to have explored this route to the Northwest. Near Fort Frances he established a post where he passed the winter, and then pushed on to Lake of the Woods where he traded with Assiniboine Indians. From them he learned of the route to the Red River. Returning to Montreal in 1689, he made a report on this route which was of value to later explorers, particularily Pierre de La Verendrye in 1732. Noyons post in 1688 makes Fort Frances the oldest settlement of continued existence west of Lake Superior. EXPLORE THESE HERITAGE SITES, Pither’s Point Park
Originally set aside under Treaty #3 as a farm reserve, the area later became a general reserve. A summer campground was established where the natives could hold their accustomed meetings and transact their business at the Indian Agency residence.
Named for RJN Pither, the Point has been a centre of recreation in Fort Frances since the Town secured a lease on the property in 1910.
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Robert J. N. Pither. Pither’s Point Park, East Fort Frances. Born in Montreal, Pither joined the Hudson Bay Company in 1846. While in charge at Fort Frances in 1853-56 and 1858-64 he lived in this vicinity (now Pither’s Point). On his retirement from the company in 1909, he served as Indian agent at Fort Frances and later at Rat Portage (Kenora). In 1873 he assisted in negotiating a treaty with the Ojibwa for cession of 55,000 square miles of territory including much of this part of Ontario.
Pither’s Point Park- Ontario Historical PlaqueSieur de LaVerendrye. Pierre de Varenes, Sieur de La Verendrye, was born at Trois Rivieres and saw military service in North America and Europe before entering the fur trade. While stationed at Lake Nipigon in 1727, he heard stories of the Western Sea which, Indians said, laid somewhere beyond Lake of the Woods. During the next 20 years in attempting to reach this sea, he personally explored much of waht is now Northwestern Ontario, southern Manitoba and North Dakota, and directed the exploration of an even larger area. Throughout this territory he extablished numerous, important fur trading posts including St. Pierre on Rainy Lake, St. Charles on Lake of the Woods and La Reine on the Assiniboine River.
Pither’s Point Park- Ontario Historical PlaqueFort St. Pierre. The first post on Rainy Lake was Fort Tekamanigan, built by Robutel de la Noue in 1717, but soon abandoned, probably because of Sioux hostility. In 1731, Sieur de La Jemaraye, La Verendrye’s nephew and lieutenant, constructed Fort St. Pierre at the south-west end of the lake where it drains into the Rainy River. As one of the Postes de la Mer de l’Ouest it served as a trading post and base for La Verendrye’s westward explorations. Fort St. Pierre was abandoned by the French about 1758 during the course of the Seven Year’s War. A timber structure having two opposing gates and tow bastions. Inside the fifty pace stockade were two main buildings each of which had two rooms heated by a double fireplace. There was a store room in one of the two bastions and also a powder magazine in the enclosure. An eleveated seven foot walkway (chemin de rounde) ran around the interior from bastion to bastion. A double row of pickets 13 feet high surrounded the buildings. |
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Pither’s Point Park Burial Mound Site
The Lookout Tower The 33 meter (100 foot) tower was originally a radar and a lookout tower located near Atkikokan. In1972, James Wrench Towse, an Industrial Development Commissioner, had the tower moved and assembled at Pither’s Point Park as a tourist attraction. Later, the two bottomlevels were enclosed and in 19 became the base of the Museum’s collection during the summer months when the Museum was located in the Library.
The Logging Tug Hallett The Hallett was the largest and most powerful boat on Rainy Lake. The 60 foot, 57 ton boat was built by Russell Brothers of Owen Sound. After construction, the boat was transported in pieces by railway flat car and reassembled here for the Pulp and Paper Mill. The Hallett was later modified to make it more suitable for pulling booms across the Lake. A change from a single to a double rudder was necessary to make the boat stable, an early towing attempt laid the boat on its side. Other renovations occured, including once as a result of fire. Descpite the engines being changed and other minor alterations, the Hallett’s essential function remained unchanded until its retirement. The Hallett was used extensively in hauling logs until 1974. During an average year, teh Hallett made twenty round trips of one hundred miles each, hauling 70,000 to 90,000 cords of wood a year in average tows of 4-5,000 cords of wood, a mile in size. Modernization of woodland operations and environmental concernsled to the demise of the lake drive. It became more economical to use a pulp truck, carrying 40 cords per load to bring logs for paper production. In 1983, the Hallett was placed in Pither’s Point Park. Restoration was completed by the Fort Frances Museum |
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EXPLORE THESE HERITAGE SITES
The upper Rainy River had originally been the site of travel for the First Nations, soon the fur traders followed the route to reach the trading posts located below the falls. Ship builders arrived at the site and such businesses as Russel Brothers set up manufacturing plants on the shores of the river. In the early 1900’s the sawmills began to establish their facilities and soon the river was often a sea of logs, as it became the transportation system for the large milling facilities and the pulp and paper mill. Up until the mid- 1970’s the annual spring log boom brought millions of cords of wood to the mill. Just above the falls, early ferry services provided transportation to our sister city of International Falls. By 1909, the increasing number of visitors precipitated the construction of the International bridge in 1912. The excursion boats soon arrived, setting up docks and boat houses for their businesses as the tourism business began to grow. By 1915,Watson and Lloyd had set up as tourist outfitters, and Galbraith offered excursions to camps and as far as the Cascades in the north arm of Rainy Lake.
For years the twin milling facilities and their lumber storage yards occupied much of the east end extending from Frenette Avenue to Shevlin Avenue, and from the river north. The mill processed over one-billion feet of lumber, employed 1,500 people and paid 12million in wages. The depression, the decline in the lumber market and the retreating timber stands contributed to the company’s demise on April 18th, 1942. The plant was removed and reassembled at Pembroke, Ontario.
The river for years was the site of booms of logs and the area of the marina, the sorting gap for the rivermen to sort the logs for entry on the green chain into the mill.
EXPLORE THESE HERITAGE SITES IN Down Town Fort Frances
The business district of Fort Frances was changed forever on June 16th of 1905. On that date a $20,000 fire razed Front Street - the main business block of town. The fire destroyed Frank Strain’s barber shop, Charles Nelson’s clothing store, Wells’ hardware, the Koochiching Hotel, Christie’s Butcher Shop, the Alberton Hotel, Fraleigh’s Drug Store, H. William’s General Store and Caspar’s photography studio.
Ironically, a newly purchased steam operated fire engine sat idle on a railway flat car as the business district burned. A disagreement between Town Council and the manufacturer was later resolved and the town accepted the fire engine.
After the fire Scott Street was soon developed as the new “Main Street”, The high prices asked for Front Street property led many businesses to re-build in this location.
The name of Scott Street has been credited to either JC Scott, early Fort Frances jeweler or EG Scott, hotel keeper.
Born in 1852 in Scotland, Mr. Edward Garden Scott apprenticed as a blacksmith. In 1869 he came to Canada entering the service of the Hudson Bay Company. He was transferred to Fort Frances in 1871 and was chief blacksmith during canal construction in 1874. In 1882, he built the first hotel known as the Alberton and then Scott House. EG Scott served on the Alberton Council in 1894 and 1896. He was instrumental in establishing the Presbyterian church, donating the land and assisted in the work of building. Mr. EG Scott passed away in 1912.
Mr. John C. Scott was born in Trenton Ontario in 1856. In 1898 he established one of the districts first jewelry business in a small store by the canal. Moving to the business section on Front Street he relocated after the 1905 fire to the corner of Scott and Mowatt, selling his business in 1909 to George Gledhill. He was active in civic affairs, serving as a councillor in McIrvine in 1904, 1906-1910 and as reeve in 1911. He also was a Town Councillor. Mr. JC Scott passed away in 1934.
Backus Canadian Imperial Bank of CommerceCorner of Scott and Mowatt by Brian Romanagli.
The vision of E.W. Backus, Minneapolis entrepeneur eventually led to the damming of the falls located on the Rainy River.
Negotiations for the construction of a dam where difficult since the Rainy River was international water, and permission from both governments was required. By 1905 Mr. Backus had procured the rights to begin construction. In 1908 he sought a three year extension and finally completed the project in 1910. MASONIC LODGE 300 Scott Street.
This mural celebrates the late 1890’s and early 1900’s and the hey day of travel by steam boats. Views of early Fort Frances include the large hotels located along Central Avenue, the wharf located below the falls and activities such as the early ferry service and fishing at the falls.
Once called the Alberton, Couchiching, Koochiching, Chaudiere Falls, the vision of entrepeneur Edmund W.Backus in the 1899 led to the damming of the falls in the pursuit of power and industry
Scott Street Business Improvement Area.
Businesses established in the first three blocks of Scott Street after the fire of 1905 razed the original business block once located on Central Avenue. Once the site of large hotels, serving the travelers by steamboat, Central Avenue now has the Pulp and Paper Mill flanking it’s western bank.
One of the first buildings remaining on Scott Street is the Fort Frances Museum located in the middle of the 200 block.
Encompassing the western part of the upper river, and the far eastern portion of the lower river, the paper mill facilities centre piece is the power dam.
The first mill went into production in 1914 after two years of construction. Originally owned by the Backus-Brooks Company, the Fort Frances Mill’s sister mill in International Falls had been in production since 1910.
The east part of the facility is the Kraft Mill originally constructed in 1971 and includes storage facilities and wood yards. The paper making machines are housed in the area located along Central Avenue, with the generating building and offices of the company located further east on Third Street West.
EXPLORE THESE HERITAGE SITES IN WEST FORT FRANCES
Much of this central portion of Fort Frances was Hudson’s Bay Company Reserve and included farming areas. After the fire that destroyed the post in 1903, the Bay sold it’s interests in this community.
145 Third Street West.Ontario Historical Plaque
Lac la Pluie House 1818-1903 “The Hudson’s Bay Company established Lac La Pluie House on this site to compete for furs with the North West Company’s Fort Lac La Pluie. After the two companies merged in 1821, only Lac La Pluie House continued in operation. It was renamed Fort Frances in 1830 after a visit by HBC Governor Sir George and Lady Frances Simpson. The post traded with local Ojibwa for furs, wild rice and isinglass (obtained from sturgeon). An important supply depot for expeditions travelling to the West and early settlers in the district, Fort Frances became a Hudson’s Bay Company store in 1898 and was destroyed by fire in 1903.”
FORT FRANCES CEMETERYThird Street West
The Fort Frances and St. Mary’s Cemetery are two of Fort Frances’ four cemeteries; Riverview and Holy Cross Cemeteries are found in further west on Colonization Road.
Under the supervision of the Fort Frances Parks Board, the cemeteries are recognized provincially for their beautiful flowers.
The Cenotaph in the Cemetery recognizes those who lost their lives in the World Wars. The Mortuary was constructed in 1925.
The Lady Frances Columbarium was erected on the site in 1998, the LaVerendrye Columbarium is found at the Riverview Cemetery.
Adjacent to the Columbarium is a monument marking the re-interment site of Hudson Bay Company burials.
In October 1984, while constructing a parking lot, the Boise Cascade Paper Company unearthed the remains of men and women from the old cemetery of the Fort Frances Hudson’s Bay Company Post (1814-1870). In 1998, the men and women were laid again to rest, less than a kilometre from their original interment.
The Fort Frances Canal. 1878.
West End Park Third Street East Fort Frances.Ontario Historical Plaque
Constructed 1875-78, during the Alexander MacKenzie’s administration as part of a larger project to improve communication in the West, the Fort Frances canal provided unbroken communication between Rainy Lake and Lake of the Woods, it provided temporary connection with completed sections of the CPR. The importance of the canal diminished when the CPR route was altered to follow a more northernly direction, the nearby water way facilitated steamship navigation until 1908, when it was incorporated into the adjacent dam and power development.
West Fort Frances. End of Keating Avenue-Ontario Historical Plaque
Erected on or near this site some time between 1775-87 by the North West Company, and abandoned in 1821 at the time of the union with the Hudson’s Bay Company. The establishement included “Athabaska House” the depot where, owing to the distances to be covered during the short travelling season the traders from Montreal met those from the Athabaskan country and exchanged lading with them.
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